Introducing Jiro's BBQ knife
Page 1: About the BBQ Knife
Design and Size
This knife became bigger than I first planned, but after thinking about the size of the meat, how many ways I could use it, how it feels in my hand, the balance, and the look, I decided on a 260 mm blade. When I use it, it feels just right—not too big, not too small.
It has the sharpness of a Japanese kitchen knife with the strength of a large forged blade. This one is lighter to handle and easier to wash after use.
Handle
I made the handle large enough to use even with gloves, including leather gloves. For strength and balance, I made it an integral handle (blade and handle in one piece of steel). I forged it by hand so both sides are even, and I left the hammered marks on the inside curve on purpose for grip and style.
Page 2
Blade Thickness
The blade is thicker than a kitchen knife but thinner than a machete or big hatchet. It is strong enough to cut big pieces of meat and thick fat without bending. The spine lets me press down with my other hand without hurting it.
Tip Shape for Meat Cutting
After many tests, I found that the butcher knife–style tip works best. Its position, curve, and turn-back—like the tip of a Japanese sword—make the last cut when separating meat from knife smooth and easy.
Sheath Fit
Each leather sheath is a little different, so I adjust the fit for each knife before I pack it. I will keep working to make the sizes as close as possible.
Page 3: Sharpening
Although the thick blade may bring to mind a small hatchet or machete, in reality, its sharpness, for use on a cutting board, is on par with that of a Nakiri vegetable knife.
Because of its thickness, it is strong against bending and twisting. As for the cutting edge—especially since it is made of Yasuki White #1 steel and hardened by water quenching—if it were given a clam-shaped edge or a double bevel like those on machetes or survival knives designed for impact use, it would fail to deliver its full sharpness.
From forge-welding to quenching and tempering, the heat treatment has been finished properly, so it is easy to sharpen. However, because White #1 steel is hard, it is important to finish sharpening carefully by hand and check whether a good edge has been achieved.
I have deliberately not called this a butcher knife, because its edge would quickly dull if rubbed with a sharpening rod—unlike the softer-tempered chef’s knife.
Page 4: About the Leather Sheath
Maintenance
I send each sheath without oil or coating, so it keeps its new look. I suggest using 100% horse oil (like Mustang Paste or Pure Horse Oil). Too much oil can make it too soft, too dark, or cause mould. Use only a small amount to give it shine. For long storage, if you don’t have anti-rust paper, keep the blade and sheath separate.
Leather Quality
I choose each piece of leather myself from shops that sell large hides (about 240 decimeters per half hide). Like choosing fine wood, I avoid parts with scars or holes. Because the sheath is big, I can’t use all the leather, but I never lower the quality.
Page 5: Blade Handling Precautions
Sheaths with a metal belt can sometimes get cut by the blade or scratched by the snap. Without a belt, the blade might fall out while walking or bending—I have even lost a hatchet this way in the mountains.
Some designs have a belt fastener at the base of the blade, but the snap inside can still touch and scratch it, so I do not use that style. When putting the blade in or taking it out, please always hold the belt firmly or with the other hand. I also attached a caution label.
Final Note
Like my kitchen knives, this BBQ knife takes many steps and much time to make. I pay attention to every detail so it works well and lasts for years.
